We jumped at the chance to be among Dark Horse Restaurant's guinea pigs when they opened their doors last night for invited guests to dine at the chic new eatery at the corner of Main and Peconic.
I believe the opening of Dark Horse heralds a new era in downtown Riverhead.
Simply put, there is nothing else like it town — or anywhere on the North Fork, or probably on whole the East End, because of its unique location and atmosphere.
Its high ceilings, tile floors and enormous windows looking out on what may be the East End's busiest intersection give the place a vibrant energy that's almost indescribable. The place hums. Dark Horse is bright, noisy and exciting.
And gorgeous.
Seated at the tables milled from some of the building's beams — removed to make way for the five studio duplex apartments on the second and third floors — you can't help but be mesmerized by the lights of the cars turning onto Peconic from Main Street. Because of the way the glass is treated, they don't shine in to the restaurant in a way that's annoying. Instead, it's almost like you're sitting in an IMAX theater with an urban street scene surrounding you.
Dark Horse feels like an amalgam of places I used to eat at in Greenwich Village back in the early 1980s.
Except the food at Dark Horse is way better. Wonderful variety, right-sized portions, fresh, and beautifully presented. Hey, I'm no food critic. But I really like to eat. And what I ate last night was delicious. Salad, clams casino, braised lamb shank, garlic mashed potatoes. Washed down with a pint of ale from the Greeport Brewery. There were all sorts of options on the menu. Everything could be ordered small plate or large plate. Everything was a la carte. And everything modestly priced. I don't think there was anything on the menu over 20 bucks, and many items under $15.
Executive Chef Jeff Trujillo probably isn't going to like this, but for me — last night, at least — the food was a scrumptious bonus. What I was most taken in with was the atmosphere, the energy… the scene. I can't wait to go back there on a rainy night, when the pavement outside is shiny-wet and the red and white lights of passing cars blur together in electric streaks of color outside the brasserie. And there will be good, cool jazz playing if you listen for it above the din of laughter and lively conversation, clinking glasses, silverware and dinner plates.
The Dark Horse has galloped into town. And it's a good bet that Riverhead will never be the same.
Thank you Dee Muma, Jeff Trujillo, Ray Dickhoff and everyone else who opened the gate.
See related story and video here.