Getting to know the lowly leek

I’ve always been intimidated by leeks. I can’t say I ever knew what to do with them. The first time a leek appeared in my CSA box, I unloaded it into the vegetable crisper and promptly forgot it was there. Then I was making a recipe and ran out of onions. Leeks seemed like an acceptable substitute, but the recipe turned out a little too bland. So what exactly is this mysterious vegetable?

Leeks are a member of the allium family, along with garlic, scallions, shallots, and onions. Similar in appearance to scallions, they are generally harvested in the fall and are able to tolerate cooler temperatures. Some varieties can be left in the ground over the winter and then harvested as needed. They are easily grown from seed and have few problems with pests or disease. The edible part of the plant is a bundle of leaf sheaths, more loosely packed than an onion. Leeks are milder in texture and flavor than onions, sometimes even referred to as sweet.

Oddly enough, leeks are one of the national emblems of Wales. The leek is part of the cap badge of the Welsh Guards and is also worn alongside the daffodil during celebrations for St. David’s Day. Legend says that during a battle with the Saxons, Welsh soldiers were ordered to wear a leek on their helmets to identify themselves. Whether true or not, the leek has long held a place of prominence in the history of Wales and is often featured in the country’s cuisine.

Here in the U.S. though, the leek is rarely a culinary star. The only recipe that comes to mind when I think of this vegetable is potato leek soup. A quick Google search for leek recipes reveals many variations of this classic, creamy soup, as well as other interesting creations, but none that I’ve ever served or been served. I mean, have you ever had a leek and pancetta risotto (or heard of it, for that matter)?

I’ve made mention, several times, that I didn’t come to gardening of my own free will. You may recall that I slowly slid down the metaphorical rabbit hole, unaware of where it would end. For me, it seems to have ended in the kitchen. My husband grows it, and I’m left to figure out what to do with it. Sometimes I feel like he’s a proud cat dropping a dead mouse at my back door; I’m not really that excited by the offering.

Sorry, I digress. I was talking about leeks and heading to the kitchen, where I am often overwhelmed by the bounty of the garden. So, I got involved with gardening to have a say in what, and preferably how much, plant matter ended up on my counter. (this is where the leeks come back to the story) and for this reason, leeks are super! I can just leave them out in the dirt until I need them; no huge harvest covering my work space, no vegetable fatigue in my recipes. This is my idea of a nearly perfect plant. Add in the low maintenance and disease resistance and I’m a true believer in the power of the leek. I can promise it will show up more often on my table. After all, seared scallops with brandied leeks and mushrooms sounds delicious. But for now, I’ll leave you with a tried-and-true, potato leek soup recipe, tested and approved by my kids.

Potato Leek Soup (gluten-free version)

6-8 potatoes, cut into large pieces (do not peel)
8 medium leeks (about ¾ inch in diameter), white part only, thoroughly washed
3 stalks of celery, roughly chopped
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
2 quarts chicken broth
¼ cup gluten free flour
¼ pound of bacon, cooked and crumbled (optional)
1 tablespoon organic cornstarch (or arrowroot powder)
1 stick melted butter (1/4 pound)
1 cup milk
1 teaspoon thyme
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon pepper
grated cheddar cheese for serving

In a large pot, place potatoes, half of the leeks, celery, onion and chicken broth and boil until the potatoes are soft. Chop the remaining leeks. Combine the melted butter, flour and cornstarch in a small bowl to make a roux. Add the chopped leeks, roux, milk, thyme, salt and pepper. Using an immersion blender or food processor, blend soup until it is smooth. Pour back into pot and simmer for 20 minutes or until soup has thickened. Add bacon and stir (if using) before serving and top bowls with grated cheddar.

I adapted this from a food network recipe to make it gluten free and then added bacon for that little something extra, just be sure the bacon is gluten free, too. For a lighter version, use skim milk and skip the bacon and cheddar. You can also add a little hot sauce for a kick.

Do you have a favorite leek recipe? Or a tip for growing this underutilized vegetable? Let me know at laurie@riverheadlocal.com.

Laurie Nigro is a mother of two, wife of a gardener, and co-founder of River and Roots Community Garden. Laurie resides downtown and though she came to gardening by accident, has welcomed it into her life.

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