Riverhead chef Jerry Dicecco hosts middle school French club culinary field trip

From the first spoonful of steamy French onion soup to the last mouthful of crème brûlée, 35 members of the Riverhead Middle School French club, treated their palates on Monday to a specially designed menu of French cuisine created by Jerry Dicecco Jr., owner of Jerry and the Mermaid restaurant in Riverhead. 

A month ago, club advisor Betsy Ruotolo was dining on French onion soup and crème brûlée at the restaurant, and her idea for a culinary field trip for the club became fully baked when Dicecco came over to her table to chat.

Ruotolo, who’s been teaching French for 30 years, wanted to bring her personal experience to the 8th graders in the club. For kids who usually munch on Wendy’s and Taco Bell, this field trip, full of delicious French ingredients, would be memorable.

“In high school, I was in an exchange program to France with AFS, the American Field Service, and I’ve always loved different cultures. We are always looking for local places to take the kids out for a cultural experience,” Ruotolo said. She mentioned to Dicecco she wanted to bring her students to his restaurant and asked if he could create some French cuisine?  “He said let’s do it!” 

For DiCecco, it was another way to connect his restaurant to the community, something he’s focused on for the past 18 years when he became the second-generation owner, following his parents, who opened Jerry and the Mermaid 32 years ago. 

“I like working with local residents. I have some knowledge of traditional French cuisine. I’m classically French trained,” Dicecco said. “Betsy and I had a conversation and she asked if we would do something. We’re not a French restaurant by any means, but we felt the field trip would give the kids a great experience.”

It was the first time Dicecco hosted the French club but the owner and chef, known in Riverhead for his generosity in the community, is involved in many clubs at the middle school. “Sometimes it’s food, but I also make donations and I’ve organized turkey drives too.” 

He also teaches culinary arts at Suffolk County Community College. “It’s entry level cooking. We make soups, stock, sauces, fish, meat and vegetables,” he said.

After the youngsters were settled in at their tables in the back room of the restaurant, Dicecco welcomed them. “I hope everyone has a lot of fun today. And have any of you had French food before?” Five hands went up. “Have any of you heard of escargot?” This time only one or two hands were raised. 

As French music played on Sirius radio in the background, the feast began when waiters brought out the first course: French onion soup. Most of the students said it was delicious. 

However, the next course — French-inspired frog legs — had kids like 13-year-old Ashton Daniels a bit hesitant to partake. “I think it might taste like chicken,” he said. His eyes popped open when another student asked him if he would taste the escargot, but he said “I am going to try it.”

At another table, Christopher Ospina, who’s 13, was eager to sink his teeth into the French-inspired cuisine. “I’ve had frog legs before and so far, the food here is delightful,” he said.  Christopher also feels he wants to travel to France because “I want to be a part of French culture and it’s a beautiful romance language that younger kids should learn.”

Thirteen-year-old Tiana Allen said she wasn’t fond of frog legs or escargot — the next course — but “I’m not a picky eater and I’ll give them both a try.” 

While sipping her French onion soup which she described as “very savory,” 13-year-old Xen Culbreth said she was going to pass on the frog legs. “They don’t sound appetizing to me.”

One of the more adventurous students was 14-year-old James Erlandson who scarfed up his plate of escargot. “It’s a bit salty and has some seafood flavor. I wasn’t grossed out; they looked like mushrooms,” James said.

Self-described picky eater, Kailee Coughlan, 13,  said she won’t eat the entrees but was waiting instead for the final course: crepes with vanilla ice cream. 

For Lehanna Mora, it was her second time tasting frog legs. “You can really see the frog’s veins and body! It’s so delicious that I ordered a second helping,” she said.

DiCecco’s spin on the frog legs for this group was the traditional French Provencal style, which he feels made them more palatable for Americans.

“I do a spice rub and a chili glaze— something you would see in New Orleans where there’s a lot of French cooking techniques and influences,” Dicecco said. His moules-frites (mussels and fries) were a favorite with many of the teenagers. 

After visiting each table and talking to the students, Ruotolo said she was surprised and pleased by how many were enjoying the food. “It’s food most of them have never sampled before. I really wanted to make the local connection for them, experience local foods and be open minded about food choices,” Ruotolo said.

Dicecco believes having all of the kids eating together encouraged many of them to sample different foods. “When they’re in a group at a table and they’re videoing each other on their phones as they’re eating, they’re more likely to try something new,” he said.