Battling the gluten-free beast

I’m a bit of a lunatic about nutrition. I read labels religiously. I have my children trained to turn the package over and if they cannot pronounce and/or identify the items listed, they must put it back on the shelf. I am often angered at what the FDA allows to pass for food. Therefore, I strive to make most of our foods from scratch.

In the quest to make my own whole foods, a few years back I purchased a grain mill. After several bulk flour purchases that I found riddled with pantry moths, I decided to take matters into my own hands and grind my own flour. This allowed me to make flour only when I needed it, resulting in a really fresh and nutritious product. I also bought a high powered mixer (after burning out two others in under two years) to enable me to create all of our bread products in my kitchen. I spent hour upon hour experimenting with different recipes for bread, pastries, crusts and doughs.

It took time, but I finally developed several products that my family absolutely loved. Homemade pizza crust was a weekly treat we all got excited for on Friday evenings. Store bought bread wasn’t even a thought, all our sandwiches were served on whole wheat bread or rolls that had been crafted from freshly ground flour. It became innate to make a new loaf every few days; the recipe memorized, the bread pans always near the front of the cabinet due to frequent use.

I kept two different types of wheat berries in the house: hard winter white for breads and doughs and soft spring white for pastries. All birthday cakes, cookies, and cupcakes came fresh from the oven. It was comforting to have control over what I was feeding my kids. The final product was constructed of ingredients I chose. I felt empowered as a mother.

And then karma came and kicked me in the butt. I found out that both of my kids are gluten intolerant.

The diagnosis didn’t come as a total shock. I had an inkling, based on some symptoms, that we would end up removing gluten from their diets. What was a shock, was how different it is to bake gluten-free. I started out very optimistic. I planned to order some gluten-free flours and simply substitute them for their wheat counterparts. And I did. And it was a disaster. So I started researching, ordering books, reading blogs, and experimenting. It was disheartening. Gluten-free baking is a totally different beast.

The first book I read about gluten-free bread baking added xanthan gum or guar gum to every recipe, every single one. What I know about xanthan gum doesn’t make me feel warm and fuzzy inside. Xanthan is derived from a bacteria and precipitated with isopropyl alcohol. Ew.

I kept looking, and I’m still searching for a better option. I found a few recipes that use a flaxseed slurry in place of the gums, but they all call for a wide range of different flours, few of which are easily obtained and all of which are quite expensive. I had never heard of teff flour before now and am a little overwhelmed by the array of rice flours; brown, white, sweet, etc. Oh, and potato flour is different than potato starch. I’m sorry, what? Does it really need to be so complicated?

It seems, if you want a product that resembles the taste and texture of a wheat bread, yes, it really does need to be so complicated. One blogger I follow, a gluten-free veteran, says she is so exact with her measurements, she made a recipe twice, the only change being 1/4 teaspoon more of baking soda. I spill that much when I bake. So what is the alternative?

Well, we have a few here. First, I decided we really don’t need to have bread that often. I’ve found great recipes for whole grain waffles, pancakes, cornbread and muffins. We can have non-gluten hot cereals like oatmeal and quinoa. For lunch, we like to scoop foods like hummus or taco meat with organic corn chips or rice crackers. I found an excellent brand of rice pasta that lists rice flour, rice bran, and water as the only ingredients. Even the finicky men folk in my house enjoy the substitute.

When it comes to sweets, most ice cream is gluten-free, as are sorbets and Italian ices.

And it turns out, you can make some amazing baked goods without gluten. We found a cupcake recipe that is easier and more flavorful than any wheat-based one we’ve ever eaten. Elena Amsterdam created it and generously shares her recipes for all things gluten-free on her blog www.elanaspantry.com. So far, she’s my favorite as many of her recipes call for only one or two types of flour (usually almond flour and coconut flour). I’ll list the recipe below.

There are some places we’re still struggling. Though I’ve found some easy bread recipes, they are often a little crumbly or of a flavor not resembling bread. Even my super-optimistic daughter has had to let me down gently when I’ve served some of these. And pizza dough, oh pizza dough, how you sadden me. I’ve tried to make my own, I’ve bought a mix, and I’ve bought frozen dough. Each one has left me near tears as I’ve struggled to bend it to my will, only to end up very disappointed. But, I’ll keep trying.

As for bread, well, sometimes you just want a sandwich. Until I find gluten-free bread success, I’m thankful there are some store bought options that have whole grains and other healthful ingredients, even if they do have xanthan gum. Everything in moderation (at least until I beat this gluten-free baking beast).

Triple chocolate cupcakes

1/4 cup coconut flour
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon sea salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
3 large eggs
1/2 cup agave nectar
1/4 cup dark chocolate chips (73 percent cacao)
1/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips
1/4 cup white chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line nine muffin cups with paper liners.

In a large bowl, combine the coconut flour, cocoa powder, salt, and baking soda. In a medium bowl, whisk together the eggs and agave nectar. Blend the wet ingredients into the coconut flour mixture with a handheld mixer until thoroughly combined, then fold in all of the chocolate chips.

Scoop 1/4 cup of batter into each prepared muffin cup.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the center of a cupcake comes out with just a few moist crumbs attached. Let the cupcakes cool in the pan for 1 hour, then serve.

I don’t usually have three kinds of chocolate chips in my house and have made this with just one type. They’re still amazing. I choose to ice them with a basic buttercream frosting, but they are delicious all on their own.

Struggling with gluten-free baking and want to commiserate? Or have you found the Holy Grail of GF baking and want to share an easy, delicious bread recipe? Contact me at laurie@riverheadlocal.com.

Laurie Nigro, a mother of two, is passionate about natural living. Laurie resides in downtown Riverhead and is co-founder of the River and Roots Community Garden on West Main Street. Contact her by email to laurie@riverheadlocal.com.

Laurie resides in downtown Riverhead and is co-founder of the River and Roots Community Garden on West Main Street. 

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